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 3 Problems on the clio! Help!
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AmDaMan
Level 5 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2006
Posts: 122

Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 5:42 pm

1) A vibration, this goes when above 1,000RPM. It's not a misfire and it's very very annoying when stuck in traffic!! It makes the steering wheel vibrate. When it went for it's MOT it had a mount fixed that stops the gearstick from moving when revving, could it be related??


2) Clunking noise from the front of the car when turning slowly, braking or coming to a stop (worse on bumpy or uneven roads). It doesn't do it all the time and it's quite loud and becoming more frequent. If i dry steer it does it too and makes the car wobble a tiny bit if ya know what I mean. I've been told this is the top strut bearings and NOT the driveshaft, can the experts confirm this? Is it a job I can do myself?

3) The worst one, clutch related i think. I had my clutch replaced the other week and ever since then it hasn't felt the same at all. The biting point is horrible and I'm having problems selcting 1st and 2nd gear (1st is easier to selcet when coming to a stop, but from neutral it's hard). Sometimes when my clutch is to the floor it still moves, it's nearly impossible to select reverse as it will crunch. I took it back and they replaced the clutch arm and said it was ok, but it wasn't. I put a bracket on the clutch cable where it hooks to the arm to make it seem like a shorter cable, this helped a bit but it makes the clutch pedal feel horrid and almost impossible to smoothly bite (it has a spring to it before it bites). It's not the clutch pedal as I replaced that too.

Please help me! Thanks, it's a 1.4RT 'M'
James Clio16v
Level 4 User

Joined: 14 Aug 2005
Posts: 80

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 1:20 am

1) Check all engine mounts for play.
2) Strut top mounts, bearings or rubber donut. Also check lower balljoints on wishbones for play.
3) Check correct cable has been fitted (presuming it is a new one). Also check that it has been routed properly in the engine bay. Also check that the self tensioner on the clutch pedal is not knackered.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 1:55 am

wot (I mean what really) james said.

in addition the cable is probably routed wrong thus causing this issue. Its a gay routing on the clio.

As for the clutch arm they replaced, they never, the box needs to come off to do that.
AmDaMan
Level 5 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2006
Posts: 122

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 2:51 am

Cheers guys!

I'll get this sorted asap (in other words when my student loan comes :) )

Are the mounts hard to sort, no engine out or anything?

Also for the strut top bearings do you need any special tools apart from a sprng compressor?

Chris, I think they did because I kicked up a fuss and they told me they had it all to bits, the box off and everything (cost me £90 :cry: and it didn't change much)

If it was routed wrong is that what's causing the dodgy spring? I'll take a look but as far as i'm aware it's never been touched. I thought it was the spring too but I changed the who assembly (I never want to do this job again) and the problem was still there.

thanks again
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 2:56 am

mounts are easy and you just need to support the engine with a jack or similar.

spring copmpressor and swan neck 22mm spanner and 6mm alan key for the top nut, they are nomaly bastards though.

chances are its routed worng tbh matey, if the release fork has been changed, the cable is new and the pedal asembly has been done its more than likely the routing.

It could be the clutch but you said it was fine before the cable was changed so it won't be the clutch
donsrno1
Level 10 User

Joined: 04 Nov 2005
Posts: 575

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 3:13 am

Chris H";p="92338 wrote:

spring copmpressor and swan neck 22mm spanner and 6mm alan key for the top nut, they are nomaly bastards though.


Or buy an impact wrench for £10 and use that - much easier IMO.
AmDaMan
Level 5 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2006
Posts: 122

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:14 am

Cheers, I'll look at the cable routing then because it's not the clutch (3 piece kit with release brearing), not the peadal assembly (brand new) so it's got to be the cable routing or a messed up gearbox.

Where on earth can you buy an impact wrench for £10 Surprised
donsrno1
Level 10 User

Joined: 04 Nov 2005
Posts: 575

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:34 am

AmDaMan";p="92346 wrote:

Where on earth can you buy an impact wrench for £10 Surprised


I got mine from makro - it just runs off of the car battery (through the cig lighter or directly). It's quite cheap and cheerfull but it did the trick for me and took the strut top nuts off quite easily.

If you look around you can get some quite cheap (could try ebay) but at that price they aren't going to be the best.
AmDaMan
Level 5 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2006
Posts: 122

Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 11:18 am

I wouldn't care if they only got a few harsh nuts off tbh, £10 is cheap as hell and I wouldn't expect it to last hehe.
AmDaMan
Level 5 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2006
Posts: 122

Posted: Wed May 24, 2006 3:43 pm

Decided to take advantage of the sun today and fit the new clutch cable I've had under my bed for ages.

Anyway it was a bugger to do and despite getting rust and other shit in my eye I managed to fit it in about 45mins.

The old cable was obviously shafted and stretched. The new cable seems to have done the trick, it was a bit crap at 1st but them the mechanism adjusted it's self and it seems ok now Smile

Here's a pic of the old cable, you can see where that grommet has come un-atteched from the outer cable.

Old Cable
Wicked Neo
FCS Event Manager

Joined: 04 Jan 2005
Posts: 3680

Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 3:41 am

amazing what difference it makes eh

did my clutch cable 2 days ago and the gear change is now crisp and smooth
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