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Stephen
Level 8 User
Joined: 14 Apr 2004
Posts: 278
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Fri Sep 17, 2004 3:05 am |
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I'll have a look then.
Timing - Ignore the old valve timing completely i.e. forget about bringing piston 1 up on the compression stroke as the timing is off anyway.
Bring the flywheel around to align the grove with 0 degrees on the gearbox bell housing. Lock the crank in place through the hole in the front. Pull the belt off and rotate the two camshafts around (Rotating the engine if necessary to allow the valves some clearance, then relocking) until the grove in each pulley is matching up with the marks in the camshaft cover.
Put the belt back on and tighten it.
Rotate the engine (by hand) two full turns and check if the marks are still aligned.
Check that the belt is still tight. |
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Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
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Fri Sep 17, 2004 3:20 am |
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ok thats right.
Sounds like bent valves tbh. |
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JB
Mr Quoter-vator
Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405
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Fri Sep 17, 2004 11:20 am |
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u making sure u have the right number of teeth between the three timing notches? |
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Stephen
Level 8 User
Joined: 14 Apr 2004
Posts: 278
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Fri Sep 17, 2004 12:53 pm |
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Three timing notches?
Do you mean between the two timing notches on the camshaft pulleys? If so I don't know what it should be.
I don't think the pulleys are out, rather the camshaft itself is... |
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Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
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Fri Sep 17, 2004 12:55 pm |
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take the pulley off then, ignore the whole how many teeth thing JB is on about.
Just adding a further complication into things. |
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JB
Mr Quoter-vator
Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405
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Fri Sep 17, 2004 1:59 pm |
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Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
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Fri Sep 17, 2004 2:12 pm |
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Stephen
Level 8 User
Joined: 14 Apr 2004
Posts: 278
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Sat Sep 18, 2004 9:19 am |
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Whipped the pulley off, low and behold the key was broken.
Bolted the pulley on in the correct place (approximately) and did a compression test for each cylinder.
Result - 10+ bar for each.
By some miracle the valves must be okay.
I then plugged the spark plugs in and turned the key... the engine fired to life.
I think the pulley wheel should be replaced because if the key + friction wasn't enough to stop the wheel turning, then friction alone isn't going to be up to the job.
Does anyone have a cheap spare?
Thanks to all who helped out, and I hope the contents of this (long) thread will be useful to others. |
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Chet T16
Retroholic
Joined: 12 Feb 2004
Posts: 5685
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Sat Sep 18, 2004 9:57 am |
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Is it not mentioned elsewhere that if tightened properly it should be fine? Dunno if i'd be happy chancin it tho... |
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Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
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Sun Sep 19, 2004 5:09 am |
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the key isn't there to stop it spinning the bolt alone is there to do this. The bolt wasn't tight enough. |
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Stephen
Level 8 User
Joined: 14 Apr 2004
Posts: 278
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Sun Sep 19, 2004 12:14 pm |
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The bolt was bloody tight! I was almost going to get the 3/4" drive ratchet out...
The key is important as it makes sure the pulley is correctly in line with the camshaft.
If I can't get another pulley is it possible to align the pulley and camshaft up accurately?
As I now have the choice to move it one way or the other, would the engine benifit from this adjustment? |
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Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
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Mon Sep 20, 2004 5:22 am |
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yes you can adjust it and get gains, needs done properly though.
The key is there to ease assembly at the factory not to hold the pulley in the right place when the engine running.
Same with woodruff keys on the crank. |
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