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 Clutch change on a 1996 megane coupe 2L 16V
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chris
Level 1 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2005
Posts: 21

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 10:46 am

Can anyone tell me how to change the clutch on the above. Do you take out the engine or drop the gearbox out below? Any particular clutch that is recommended? How long should it take? What do you need to disconnect to do it?

Many thanks

Chris
donsrno1
Level 10 User

Joined: 04 Nov 2005
Posts: 575

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 10:55 am

For the clutch it generally seems as though the renault clutches are fine and last a good while. Renault clutches are just valeo ones and when I changed the clutch on the 1.8 16v I found out that unipart clutches are also valeo so if you can get a unipart clutch (try partco, brown brothers etc) then it will probably save you a bit of money compared to going to renault.

As for how to do it, I'll let someone who knows about meganes help you.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:02 pm

take the engine out its the easiest way.

If you have ac then you can struggle and move the box over to do the job.

any clutch is fine, valeo is oe but luk, sachs, boge, valeo, QH etc etc are all fine.
chris
Level 1 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2005
Posts: 21

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:08 pm

I do have air con which has only just been re-gassed, does this mean it would be better to take out the gearbox from below? The main reason I think the clutch is the problem is it has become difficult to engage gears and especially 3rd. The clutch does not slip though with the handbrake on and starting in second. Am I barking up the right tree?


Last edited by chris on Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:11 pm; edited 1 time in total
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:10 pm

you can't take it out below unless you drop the subframe. Just undo the box, move it over and change the clutch, tight and a pain but th ebest way to go in your situation.
chris
Level 1 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2005
Posts: 21

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:14 pm

How easy is it to take off the subframe? I will be doing this all on axle stands on my drive. I will need to replace the pressure plate and release bearing, is it really possible without removing the gearbox?
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:24 pm

to remove the subframe you have to get the car a good coupel of feet in the air and then spend all day stripping it.

You do remove the box, you undo it and slide it over. You juts don;t have to pull it right out of the bay but you can if you wish if you move the ac hoss out the way
chris
Level 1 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2005
Posts: 21

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:30 pm

Thanks for the advice, so the gearbox will move far enough out the way to see what you are doing. This must mean you do not have to remove the off side drive shaft, which would be a saving. If I did decide to take out the box then it will fit up past the air con?
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:35 pm

you have to remove the offside shaft from the hub at least, I don't see the problem with the shaft, just pop the pin out then you don't have to undo the hub nut.

enough room to feel what your doing and you will have ot turn the engine over with a spanner to get to all the bolts 6mm allen head and theres 6 of them.

it will lift up by the pipes as the poipes have give in them.
chris
Level 1 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2005
Posts: 21

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:40 pm

I think this will be the best way to do it, to raise the gearbox up and out. I appreciate your help. Is there enough play to remove the OS drive shaft without removing the steering rod? I assume the pin in the shaft is easy to see and a new one should be used when rebuilding?
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:46 pm

theres miles of room, its like is america far enough from the uk to not throw a stone to!

pin just knocks out with a 4mm punch, remove the blob of sealent from it first
chris
Level 1 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2005
Posts: 21

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:48 pm

Thanks for your help I think I know enough to be able to do the job, fingers crossed.

Many thanks

Chris
chris
Level 1 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2005
Posts: 21

Posted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 5:27 am

One final question. I am assumimg it is the clutch since it is difficult to change into 3rd gear but the others do not seem too bad. Am I jumping to the wrong conclusions? The car has done 102,000 but is not driven hard but does spend most of its time around. Are there any other know problems with 3rd gear only, that might cause this problem and should I have the gearbox looked at whilst off the car? It will change into 3rd quite happily if you match the revs exactly but then you hardly need to use the clutch. Also the clutch only grabs very low on the pedal.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 7:54 am

if first and reverse go in fine then its not the clutch.

3rd syncrho iis probably fooked.

try changing the box oil, that can help a lot in some cases.
chris
Level 1 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2005
Posts: 21

Posted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 9:20 am

I change the oil annually with a synthetic oil. Is it worth having the box reconditioned or gamble on a secondhand one? Is it expensive?
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 9:42 am

2nd hands the cheapest route
chris
Level 1 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2005
Posts: 21

Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 3:01 am

Chris

I have read more articles regarding engine removal, how easy is it for someone who has never removed an engine to do the job if I get a hoist? Or should I stick to your earlier suggestion of taking the box up through the engine bay?
chris
Level 1 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2005
Posts: 21

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:47 pm

HELP REQUIRED URGENTLY!!

I have the gearbox nearly off but why is it sticking in the top right corner when facing it from the passgegers side? Whats holding it in? Is it the starter?
Neal
Forum Moderator

Joined: 18 Feb 2004
Posts: 7432

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 1:01 pm

there should only be 3 bolts going through the gearbox into the starter, remove all three and the starter should stay on the engine. The wiring loom does loop through a hole in the gearbox casing to get to the starter though iirc so you might need to remove the wiring from the starter to release it.
chris
Level 1 User

Joined: 11 Apr 2005
Posts: 21

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 1:07 pm

Thanks, I seem to have take bolts out from everywhere. Am I correct in saying that the gearbox is mainly being held by nuts. Where is the third bolt for the starter? I have removed one top right, another directly below it and the 3rd is where?
Neal
Forum Moderator

Joined: 18 Feb 2004
Posts: 7432

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 1:12 pm

the other one will be horizontally in line with the top one you already took out, about 3 inches in front. The 3 bolts form a sort of right angle if you get me. The one youre looking for is a bit of a pain to see/get at as the gearbox casing webs get in the way (again iirc)
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