JB3100 & F7P

Level 8 User Joined: 14 Apr 2004 Posts: 278

This gearbox is from a tin sumped F3P engine. Is it okay to fit it to a F7P engine with an alu sump and only just over half the bolts have somewhere to go?

If not, is it then possible to fit the tin sump + bracket (or maybe just the bracket?) to the F7P?
Bearing in mind a possible difference in oil capacity and the oil filler level....

If just the bracket was going on then I think it would be time for the angle grinder, has anyone tried this?

Forum Moderator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 1356

I am not to sure but I know that my box has a tin sump and the lump has a alu sump. The box is on but I am sure it is missing bolts.... hmmm should really get that sorted

Level 8 User Joined: 14 Apr 2004 Posts: 278

Maybe I could split the old JB3048 gearbox & use the half that goes aginst the engine... any thoughts?

Forum Moderator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 1356

Do you mean the bell housing?

Retroholic Joined: 12 Feb 2004 Posts: 5685

I had asked this before and was told its ok, the clutch will be more exposed tho so get the opening covered

You should be able to switch the bellhousings if you really wanna start splittin boxes...

Forum Moderator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 1356

Splitting boxs ain't fun, Chris took one apart properly and couldn't get it back together

Level 8 User Joined: 14 Apr 2004 Posts: 278

Yep, the bellhousing.

I'm just a bit worried about the strength of the joint, I don't intend to go over many hump back bridges but I just don't want the two to part ways...

Any tips on what to cover the gap with?
I might toy about with that bracket to see if I can get it to fit.

More importantly, what about the MOT test, will it go through okay?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

it will be fine.

The gap at most is an inch.

the tin sumpers have a nice steel tie bar where it bolts to.

the ally sump efforts have T40 bolts goign into a fragile and easily cracked ally sump.

Its not load bearing or anything.

leave it, just make sure the big 16/187mm bolts and the 2 nuts are there.

Don't take the bellhousing off, I took mine apart to rebuild it, nevert got round to it, stuck the casing back together minus the selectros and bunged it in the shed. Its hard enough to re-assemble it withotuh the selectors there, never mind whilst holdign in springs etc.

Level 7 User Joined: 27 Feb 2004 Posts: 243

****warning****

the tin sumped boxes, without the underneath tie bar, has 4 mounting bolts to the engine. after 3 weeks of driving, the gearbox started to pull away from the engine, cus of the lack of bolting support on the underside.

only solution to this, is the machine (aka angle grind), enough clearence on the front base of the block, by sump to accept a nut, therefore allowing clamping from both sides. thats the only way itl stay together with 4 bolts securing it. i know about it, i found out the hardway!!

jimbo

Level 8 User Joined: 14 Apr 2004 Posts: 278

"grind enough clearence on the front base of the block, by sump to accept a nut, therefore allowing clamping from both sides."

You've lost me here...

Are you suggesting adding extra bolts on each side to strengthen the joint?

Level 7 User Joined: 27 Feb 2004 Posts: 243

theres a pic of wat i mean.

need to grind off enuff metal to make clearence for the nut, so clamps both the engine and box together from both sides. youl understand once u see for urself.

jimbo

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

Jimbo I drive hard and never had that problem.

If you make sure the bolts and the nuts are tightened properly then you shouldn't have any probs.

Level 7 User Joined: 27 Feb 2004 Posts: 243

so ur running a ally umped engine, with tin sump gearbox then?

the bolts were locktighted, and within 3 weeks, theyd began to sperate, as the load from supporting the engine, plus vibration and torque loosened the bolts. only solotuin was to lock it together properly with nuts from either side.

jimbo

Level 8 User Joined: 14 Apr 2004 Posts: 278

I had a look last night and I think I know what you were describing, here goes:

The flange on the block of the alu sumped F7P has got holes for 5 bolts, whereas the flange on the tin sumped gearbox has holes for 6. So to ulilise the sixth hole a nick needs to be cut out of the flange on the block. Obiously it isn't stengthened the same way as the other holes and the flange is rounded so it will not be the best job, but it will provide some help to keep the two together.

Don't know what to do, might take a nick out of it to be on the safe side though. The block's flange isn't very thick so the bolt can't be really really tight.

Mr Quoter-vator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 7405

will a block from a tin sumped engine go togther with a gbox from an ally sumped engine???

Forum Moderator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 1356

Hope mine will be ok, I really can’t be doing with having to change the box! Sad

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

Well george Mark was drivign around on it and its still there so I would imagine it will be fine.

An ally sump box will mate up to a tin sump block but you need to leave out the tie bar.

Level 7 User Joined: 27 Feb 2004 Posts: 243

heres another pic of where u gota fit the nut on the block in order for it to all be locked together tightly.

Mr Quoter-vator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 7405

yeah soz bit confusing..what i meant was i have a tin sumped engine....firstly, will my ally sump go straight on it and secondly will the gbox fit to that off my ally sumped engine?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

ally sump will go straight on as will box.

Mr Quoter-vator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 7405

tidy mun