Retro-Renault Archive Forum Index  
SEARCH THE ARCHIVE FORUMS  •  Log in
Hello, you are currently browsing to Retro-Renault Archive which is a copy of our old forum. You cannot post replies in this forum. Please click here to go to the active website. 
 Next problem.
Author Message
huwwatkins
Site Subscriber

Joined: 10 Jun 2004
Posts: 2317

Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 2:30 pm

Right, sorted the fuel pump problem with another relay. Next problem. From cold the car starts fine. Drove it some 12 miles in to down, parked up and nipped out for 10 minutes. Came back, cranking but nothing. After about 10 -15 minutes of random fiddling under the bonnet it fires up with a noticable smell of petrol.
Got home, killed the engine and 5 seconds later turned it back on, it struggled to start but after holding the throttle slightly it started and idled ok afer revving.
The CTS is practically new, so what could it be? Air temp sender, Lambda sensor? Also doing naff mpg even when warm, so possibly lambda?

Cheers
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 12:31 am

well this is a box of worms.

Could be the new CTS is dodgy, its not un-common.

Could be a dodgy air temp sender.

Could be an air leak somewhere, most likely to the MAP sensor thus it thinks the throttles open all the time.

Make sure the TPS arm isn't stuck in the fully open position.

If you check the lambda's voltage you should be able to see if its being ignored or if its buggered. If its constantly at nearly 1V then the sensors working but its being ignored, which then leads us to why?

If the lambdas being ignored it must be that the wires are either broken (check the heater wires for 12V) or that the ECU hasn't kicked in closed loop running. What causes open loop running, either full throttle (look for a dodgy map pipe/sensor or the TPS) or CTS is saying the car hasn't heated up.

if the lambda voltage is stuck on 0.2V and doesn't budge its knackered. If it is switching but theres a lean reading then you have an air leak into the exhaust system. Somewhere between the head face and CAT.
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 1:03 am

can of worms!

this is truely turning out to be a nightmare for you huw...i feel sorry for you, and if it were not for other reasons i would say scrap the fecking thing!

(which means break so everyone can salvage goodies:D)
huwwatkins
Site Subscriber

Joined: 10 Jun 2004
Posts: 2317

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:03 am

TPS arm is ok, i've checked that, it only seems to have happened since i've changed the head over (including manifolds)(ie, it didnt happen during the time i had the cracked head on for a few days) so its possibly the air temp sender that came with it?

Dumb question, but how do i check the Lambda wires? Im assuming theres a connection near the sensor? Which wires do i need to check? And lastly where are the heater wires? and this is obviously when the car is running...?
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:12 am

righty the heater wires are the 2 grey wires going into the lambda sensor. Underneath on the subframe you will see the connector, back probe it, you should get 12V if you do then thats ok, but now I have mentioned this this could be a cause of the fuel pump relay dying.

The lambda heater is funnily enough spliced from the fuel pump relay iirc, its constantly fed. If its pulling to high a current it may be causing the demise of the fuel pump relay! The resistatnce of the heater circuit on the lambda should be around 6ohms.

Anywya to test the switching of the lambda back probe the black wire at the connector and use the other probe on the exhaust, its earthed through the exhaust.

Swap the air temp sensor over then.

you haven't done anything daft with the knock sensor plug or anything have you?
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:25 am

that head plus various sensors u had with it (inc. air temp) worked fine for me...got me over 225 miles home without missing a beat and at 40 odd mpg...

did u have these problems with non-starting before u started any fiddling...ie well before u even started doing the HG job?
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:26 am

was it in the boot though JB?

Laughing ah well I thought it was funny Rolling Eyes
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:36 am

ho ho ho....sweet engine that hatch had....silent and smooth. shame to split it.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:37 am

why do it then? Pillock Razz
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:15 am

cos i would never have used it really..it owuld have just sat there...at least now i know its (hopefully) being put to some use. im just too kind

0:- ) < thats a halo btw Razz
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:17 am

so are you going to put an engine in the hatch or are you fixing it for no reason then plan to sell it without an engine?
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:36 am

its gunna have that btm end i built...plus a new head.

dunno what the final plan is...hopefully i will like it and just keep it...after all this work i think i must keep it.
huwwatkins
Site Subscriber

Joined: 10 Jun 2004
Posts: 2317

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:57 am

No
It didnt do it, before i swapped the gasket or when i changed it the first time. It doesd start perfectly from cold though. Anyone got a lambda sensor if i need one?

Are they the same as the 1.4s 19's or 1.6 meganes?
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 5:47 am

depends on your definition of the same. Are they identical? no. will they work/ yes only if you get a 3 wire one though.
huwwatkins
Site Subscriber

Joined: 10 Jun 2004
Posts: 2317

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:02 am

You got a spare? Wink
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:09 am

that would be nice wouldn't it! Nope.

It went on the white chammy, but it works perfectly thanks for asking Razz

A universal one is about 30 quid though. And tbh most say stick to oe gear like NTK/Bosch etc I have to say I have never had a problem with a universal one but then again I have never ran one for 100k but then again neither will you...
huwwatkins
Site Subscriber

Joined: 10 Jun 2004
Posts: 2317

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:05 am

30 from halfords?
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:19 am

halfords don't do them any more.

Motor factors.
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:50 am

rings a bell...when i got one from halfords for someones 1.4 they said it was like half price cos it was end of line stock.

gsf want about 60 odd
Addie
Site Subscriber

Joined: 05 Apr 2004
Posts: 1141

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:30 am

Just been to a scappie, only one R19 and it was raining - engine pushed so far back and the whole car was rocking on the steelies it was sat on so wasn't going looking for it.

The air temp sensor was there, but wasn't moving - need a deep socket and a decent brace to get it I think. Only spared 15 minutes to go - got 2,000 words to write for tomorrow.
R1916S
Site Subscriber

Joined: 23 Jan 2005
Posts: 502

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 9:36 am

Display posts from previous:      


 Jump to:   




SPIDER ARCHIVE
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group :: FI Theme :: All times are GMT - 7 Hours
ScriptWiz.com phpbb HTML Archiver - Created by ScriptWiz.com and released by Skinz.org