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 Noise when turning
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tominbristol
Level 9 User

Joined: 03 Jul 2006
Posts: 412

Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2006 6:03 am

Hi
I just bought a r19 16v 3-dr hatch. it's lovely, it's dark metallic blue and i've been after one for ages after my r19 1.4l biarritz gave up last year!
It needs some work doing to it for the MOT (cracked suspension spring, also needs new gaiter on the CV joint apparently).
But there's another problem I noticed which is when i go round a tight corner even fairly slowly i hear a quite fast knocking. Any ideas what this is likely to be? I can hear it particularly coming from the passenger side when I turn left.

And I'll try and post some pics after I've done a bit of work on the body etc!
huwwatkins
Site Subscriber

Joined: 10 Jun 2004
Posts: 2317

Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2006 6:16 am

CV joint - new drive shaft time. Does it only do it when turning in one direction? You can test this by turning full lock and going round slowly in a circle.
hooverphonique
Level 6 User

Joined: 10 Nov 2005
Posts: 149

Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2006 6:52 am

i would think the same... and since you say it needs a new gaiter, then its highly likely the grease has been thrown out of the CV joint and from there its just downhill....
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2006 7:28 am

exactly the burst CV gaiter has probably killed the joint, pop a new shaft one.
tominbristol
Level 9 User

Joined: 03 Jul 2006
Posts: 412

Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2006 7:41 am

Thanks, that would make sense I guess!

On another note, would the wheels from my 1.4L r19 fit straight onto my 16v? I'm assuming the PCD and centre diameter etc are the same so it should just be a straight swap?
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2006 9:25 am

yes straight swap. And if you are pinching bits off it you should be able to use one of its driveshafts too.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2006 9:31 am

if they are 13's they won't fit on the front over the brakes.
Peahole
Level 7 User

Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 243

Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2006 9:31 am

tominbristol";p="99907 wrote:
Thanks, that would make sense I guess!

On another note, would the wheels from my 1.4L r19 fit straight onto my 16v? I'm assuming the PCD and centre diameter etc are the same so it should just be a straight swap?


Depends what size they are, anything less than 15 inch wont fit due to the larger breaks on the 16v

*edit* bah chris h beat me too it.


Last edited by Peahole on Mon Jul 03, 2006 9:32 am; edited 1 time in total
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2006 9:32 am

14's fit on fine.
tominbristol
Level 9 User

Joined: 03 Jul 2006
Posts: 412

Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2006 9:36 am

That would be good news indeed if I could. Is prop shaft replacement relatively straightforward? It will be a first for me this one, but I'd prefer to do the work myself rather than letting a mechanic have all the fun! :D
tominbristol
Level 9 User

Joined: 03 Jul 2006
Posts: 412

Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2006 9:38 am

[quote="Peahole"]
Depends what size they are, anything less than 15 inch wont fit due to the larger breaks on the 16v[/quote]

Good thinking. They're 15" wheels so should be ok. I'm assuming the brakes on the 16v version are uprated from the 1.4 otherwise I could have had them too...
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2006 11:49 am

DRIVEshafts are pretty straightforward to change, just the usual fight against stiff/coroded nuts and bolts.

O/S, undo the hub nut, remove the strut-to-hub bolts, knock out the pin in the shaft located near the gearbox end, then you should be able to manoeuvre it out. perhaps the track rod end needs to come off...can't remember.

N/S, bit different on the gearbox end of the shaft, no pin this time but a gaitor which is holding the box oil in, so drain that first via the sump plug to avoid a big mess, then undo the three bolts to the gaitor, outer end same as other side, then out it comes...
bbracer16valver
Retroholic

Joined: 23 Dec 2005
Posts: 3315

Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2006 1:29 pm

also i got this knocking it came from what i thought was the N/S checked it all out changed shaft just in case, wheel bearing fine an all, but its my track rod end on the O/S thats nacked, donno how it really relates to the N/S but i guess if sumats out of line it all is...
tominbristol
Level 9 User

Joined: 03 Jul 2006
Posts: 412

Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 12:31 am

Thanks JB. Maybe I'll have a go taking the one off my old car before tampering with the new one...
Haynes manual seems to make things as complicated as ever but it says to renew the hub nut whenever you change take it off - is this important? I guess it's under a lot of torque so might have suffered?

Cheers guys
bbracer16valver
Retroholic

Joined: 23 Dec 2005
Posts: 3315

Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 12:32 am

na dont bother...
Neal
Forum Moderator

Joined: 18 Feb 2004
Posts: 7432

Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 12:45 am

Tom - just to make sure you realise, the 1.4's driveshafts won't fit the 16V...
bbracer16valver
Retroholic

Joined: 23 Dec 2005
Posts: 3315

Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 12:46 am

JB";p="99913 wrote:
yes straight swap. And if you are pinching bits off it you should be able to use one of its driveshafts too.


not even one neal?
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 1:10 am

1.4 shaft will be fiine until the 1st corner when it will pop out and if your really lucky destroy it meanign new box.
bbracer16valver
Retroholic

Joined: 23 Dec 2005
Posts: 3315

Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 1:14 am

Laughing the best answers as always CH straight to the point
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 1:18 am

meh...my bad.
tominbristol
Level 9 User

Joined: 03 Jul 2006
Posts: 412

Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 4:17 am

OK fair point! Guess a new driveshaft's in order then
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