R19 16v Overheating

Newbie Joined: 05 Jun 2006 Posts: 14

Hi All,
Just bought a 1993 (L reg) R19 16v for trackdays only. Currently standard apart from induction kit, stainless exhaust from cat back, upgraded discs and pads. 75,000 miles, new headgasket and cambelt.
Lots of little problems, but the major one is overheating. Fan seems to cut in and out OK and heater works fine. The problem is circulation as the rad is a lot hotter at the top than the bottom. Trying another flush and refill tomorrow.
I assume it's a common problem so apologies if this may have been answered previuosly - I had a quick look at previous posts but couldn't find an answer.
Bit long winded I'm afraid, but any advice would be much appreciated - the first trackday is in 3 weeks!!
Cheers guys.

Retroholic Joined: 27 Feb 2006 Posts: 1000

buggered rad?

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

yeah, its probably blocked with rust and crap... cooling system doesn't like being neglected on these cars.

Take the rad out and flush it backwards and forwards. Also connect the hosepipe to the engine hoses and the heater matrix hoses etc. until the water runs clear. You could be there a long time.

Use decent coolant when you put it back in.

Retroholic Joined: 27 Feb 2006 Posts: 1000

try a new rad? probably handle the extra ragging?

Newbie Joined: 05 Jun 2006 Posts: 14

Cheers chaps - I'll give it a go this weekend and let you know how I get on.

Newbie Joined: 05 Jun 2006 Posts: 14

Removed rad today and flushed back and forth. Lots of rust washed out. Think I'll replace with a new one anyway.

Another question - whilst removing the bottom hose, I've managed to damage the electric connector to the secondary pump (if that's what it is - not entirely sure what it does - assume it pumps water around after engine switched off). Can I drive the car with this pump not wired up? I only need to get to a mates workshop about 40 miles round trip before this is repaired. Again, sorry if the answer to this is obvious!

Additionally, where's the best place to get a rad - GSF price is Â£70ish I think. I'm based in Berkshire if this makes any difference.

Also what's the most effective/easiest way of getting cold air to feed the filter?

Cheers all.

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

You can drive the car as far as you like with it not working, it doesn't come on until after you've turned the engine off anyway. Stops localised boiling of the coolant in the head - theoretically. Most of them are buggered and don't work these days anyway, so if you can't be bothered to fix it at all it's not a big deal.

dunno about the rad, probably GSF yeah, might get lucky on eBay if you have a look around. Same rad as clio 16v/williams btw.

Best way of getting cold air to the filter is leave the standard airbox and bumper feed on.

Retroholic Joined: 23 Dec 2005 Posts: 3315

Neal";p="97282 wrote:

Best way of getting cold air to the filter is leave the standard airbox and bumper feed on.

how so??

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

Well, because it takes the air from the bumper, at ambient atmospheric temperature, rather than in the engine bay, at engine heated temperature like a cone filter does.

Retroholic Joined: 23 Dec 2005 Posts: 3315

ah ok some pople sware by airboxes, i reakon using the airbox pipe plus abit more pipe then take the air filter 6'' off the floor through the pass side at the front and just remove the plastic pannel the there is NO hot air begin drawn in just cold

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

ph1 takes it from the rad surround anyway.

Newbie Joined: 05 Jun 2006 Posts: 14

Thanks for the help guys.

Fitting the new rad on Saturday. Hopefully all will be well temperature wise. What are your views on the low temp thermostats and fan switches? Also where is 'normal' operating temperature on the gauge and where should it sit whilst giving it a caning on the track? Also any other 'recommendations' regarding cheap tweaks for the track.

Cheers again fellas.

Site Subscriber Joined: 02 Oct 2004 Posts: 1575

hello mate good tyres and suspension, and pads. but these all cost money not heaps but it all costs. start with pads, green stuff seem to be good for track days and don't cost a fortune. if your worried about temperatures, I would recomend not running the car whilst your in a queue to get onto the track push the car whilst your in the queue only have the engine running for 2-3 mins before you get onto the track.

Retroholic Joined: 23 Dec 2005 Posts: 3315

dont bother with low temp shit as it will kick in at un-required times and kill some power from your engine that could be better used on the track Very Happy