R19 CAB - PIG TO START

Level 1 User Joined: 20 Dec 2004 Posts: 20

Wasnt always like this but since the weather has got worse so has she.

it needs a pump or two from the pedal and a continuos turn of the key and it usually starts then dies with lack of rev, usually have to do this a few times before it remains "awake", sometimes it starts and cuts out when i touch the brake pedal at a junction. it seems to start ok say 2 hours later, but any later and its an oink oink again.

is it needing new plugs and leads or is it likely something else?

as usual all replys appreciated. No doubt more questions on its way.

this cars seems to need the works to keep it on the road, suppose thats all the fun for when it is up to a1.

cheers.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

new CTS (coolant temp sensor do a search) and the ICV will need a clean (see my tech articles).

Unless you have a very rare ph1 cab with the 1.7 carb engine.

Level 1 User Joined: 20 Dec 2004 Posts: 20

Hi, i replaced the CTS and the car starts first time every time. yippee

Question, when fixing this would it then mean that my heater inside the car would work?

It was lukewarm before i changed it and allthough i moved the dash about a bit (failed attempt to get to the heater matrix) i didnt really do much else to the heater. After running the car on position 3 of the heater at heat for about 15 minutes i turned the car off and steam came out from the engine bay, i opened the bonnet and it was my water bottle, i waited for the steam and pressure to die and then filled it up to the top (it looked empty allthough im sure it wasnt beforehand) and ran the engine for another 10 minutes or so and when i switched it off, no steam and no loss of water, should it be ok to drive or is there a fault that i am unaware of here?

cheers.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

CTS has no effect whatsoever on anything side the ECU.

ThE problem you have is air inside the matrix or the hot air flap not movign right over. I would assume you never messed around with the cable so the hot air flap should be ok.

The matrix will have loads of air in it. I have this same problem. With the engInE runninG unclip the elSTIC BAND AROUNd THE COOLANT HEADER TANK and lift it up, you will see lots of air from the heater matrix passign up the hose. Now you need to hold it in such a way that the air doesn't get sucked straight down the other pipe back into the engine.

If your system is not holding pressure as indicated by the steam or if it is but its being way over pressuried, (head gasket) then the caps either gone or you have a leak. If theres no system pressure then the you will eventually destroy the engine.

Level 1 User Joined: 20 Dec 2004 Posts: 20

Hi, i checked my bottle and it had half the water i put in it the day before, so maybe i have a leak? how can i fix this, would radwell help? My tappits sounded nosier than normal is this pressure related?

help me please because im worried now.

thanks.

Mr Quoter-vator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 7405

tappets not water pressure related no....oil pressure yes, but not water.

Level 1 User Joined: 20 Dec 2004 Posts: 20

Right, so the leak what should i do there then?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

find out if its leaking thats a good start.

Level 1 User Joined: 20 Dec 2004 Posts: 20

well it must be if the bottle is half full, will radwell seal it?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

are you sure you just don't have air trapped in it? It can be right up pouring out th ebottle one minute but if an airlock shifts then it can be below the min the next minute. I woudl also hazard a guess to that being whyt he heaters crap.

Stick radseal or whatever in the car anbd watch the heater never work again and the head passages block then the engine slowly die.

Level 1 User Joined: 20 Dec 2004 Posts: 20

I put radwell in the bottle over a week ago and seemed as though nowt happened are you saying that it screws up the engine and such like, or is that after continued use?

would a solution be to pull of the pipes and make sure the are all clear and then put them back on, would that cancel out an airblock or am i way of the mark here?

cheers again.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

if you read the last pages of my chamade progress report you will see ways which I have bled mine. Mine is being a right arse.

Rad weld seals whatever it can up, it seals th ehole and normally causes overheatign as a result and it blocks the small passageways in the cyl head as well.

With Bens old engine I whipped the head off and pulled out large slugs of sealant crap from abround the exhaust valve seat waterways, this is what I beleive caused localised overheating leading to his engine seizing.

Theres a bleed screw on the top passenger side of the rad, undo it until air stops coming out, also squeeze all the coolant hoses to work any airt around.

if you find a leak fix it properly. If you do have a leak it may just be a loose hose.

Level 1 User Joined: 20 Dec 2004 Posts: 20

Righto i will try letting all the air out of that screw and squeeze the hoses and you reckon that might make it ok again?

how will i know?

cheers

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

if the heater starts workign and the level settles down then I would say its sorted.

Level 1 User Joined: 20 Dec 2004 Posts: 20

hope so, will keep you posted, tell me, how do you know so much, are you a mechanic?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

short sweet answer - yes

longer answer I am above the average mechanic, I fully understand the fundamentals of vehicular technolgoy and its shortcomings.

Level 1 User Joined: 20 Dec 2004 Posts: 20

WELL YOU DA MAN Cool