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 Wheel Bearing
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donsrno1
Level 10 User

Joined: 04 Nov 2005
Posts: 575

Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 2:44 pm

This is a bit of a long story so please bear with me. When I bought my car at auction about 9 months ago I found that the wheel bearing was needing replaced so that was done but within about 1500 miles it had to be replaced once again. I was told that this was probably caused by the hub so I got a hub from the scrappies, put a new bearing in it and fitted it to the car. I have just checked all wheels for any play yesterday and I have found that the same wheel (from passenger side) had a bit of play in it once again. Since it was last replaced (with the new hub) I have done about 2000 miles.

I'm not sure it's the bearing but I don't know what else could cause the play in the wheel. At the moment I am presuming I just got another dodgy hub but I have two questions, they are:

1) Could anything other than the hub be causing the bearing to go?

2) Could the play in the wheel (movement when holding at 12 and 6 o'clock) be down to anything other than the bearing?

Thanks.
Xvisor
Level 7 User

Joined: 06 Sep 2004
Posts: 230

Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 3:08 pm

Well you can try to find out if the bearing is gone by turning wheel and putting your ear againt the front fender or by holding the shocker while spinning the wheel most of the time you can feel and/or hear a humming noise... you should if you got a lot of play and it would be the bearing i presume.
donsrno1
Level 10 User

Joined: 04 Nov 2005
Posts: 575

Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 3:17 pm

There isn't much play TBH but certainly more (slightly) than before. When rotating it there isn't very clear humming or anything but it's difficult to get it to spin freely as the pads seems to be constantly rubbing on the discs.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 1:10 am

where is the play, 6 and 12 o'clock or 3 and 9 o'clock?
donsrno1
Level 10 User

Joined: 04 Nov 2005
Posts: 575

Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 5:38 am

there is a bit of play at both 6and 12, and 3 and 9 chris. There's no noise to be heard yet so I'll check the strut to hub bolts etc.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 6:08 am

check the bottom balljoint as well.
dose
Level 5 User

Joined: 22 Jun 2005
Posts: 123

Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 11:57 am

yep as chris says and track rod end(make sure wheels tight not being funny but u cud be suprised see it all the time) Confused also top mount on shock absorber(has a bearing in it could be worn)also could be inner rack joint.

hope helps
donsrno1
Level 10 User

Joined: 04 Nov 2005
Posts: 575

Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 4:27 pm

Thanks for the suggestions. Could anyone tell me how I can check each of these things as I'm not sure how each one can be check individually.

Thanks.
dose
Level 5 User

Joined: 22 Jun 2005
Posts: 123

Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:33 pm

1. track rod end-grab wheel3 o'clock and 9 o'clock give good hard shoogle from side to side and get some one or look in at trackrod end see if there is any movement at where the trackrod end meets the hub carrier-straight forward.

2.tighten wheel lol! just to be sure-dont over tighten.

3.top mount on shock absorber-hands 12 and 6 same as before but look up see if can see any movement if play there should be fairly noticable!

4.inner rack joint-same as 1. but if trackrod end is fine could be tarck rod its self(part trackrod end attaches too! u will feel the movement rather than see it unless u remove the rack gaitor-not really likly to be worn expect some (v.little)movement as power steering models have tolerances and allow slight movement.

good luck more than likely bearing mines gone on front too n/s
donsrno1
Level 10 User

Joined: 04 Nov 2005
Posts: 575

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 11:50 am

dose wrote:
1. track rod end-grab wheel3 o'clock and 9 o'clock give good hard shoogle from side to side and get some one or look in at trackrod end see if there is any movement at where the trackrod end meets the hub carrier-straight forward.

2.tighten wheel lol! just to be sure-dont over tighten.

3.top mount on shock absorber-hands 12 and 6 same as before but look up see if can see any movement if play there should be fairly noticable!

4.inner rack joint-same as 1. but if trackrod end is fine could be tarck rod its self(part trackrod end attaches too! u will feel the movement rather than see it unless u remove the rack gaitor-not really likly to be worn expect some (v.little)movement as power steering models have tolerances and allow slight movement.

good luck more than likely bearing mines gone on front too n/s


Thanks mate - I'll try all that tomorrow. If it is the bearing I will be so annoyed as it's already cost me about £150 on just the passenger side bearing over about 7 months. I do think though that the movement is slightly different to before tough - it's almost as though there is a slight up and down movement of the wheel - but it's only very slight.

How would I check the ball joint BTW?
dose
Level 5 User

Joined: 22 Jun 2005
Posts: 123

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 12:25 pm

same agian 3 and 9 also get a lever in between the ball joint and hub carrier should move up and down if anything
Dan
Site Subscriber

Joined: 28 Jan 2005
Posts: 3547

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 3:43 pm

slight wear in both the ball joint and track rod.
donsrno1
Level 10 User

Joined: 04 Nov 2005
Posts: 575

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 5:48 pm

Today I tooks the wheel off and I tightened up the strut to hub nuts and this has eliminated the play at 12 and 6 o'clock but there is still some play at 3 and 9 o'clock.

What would this suggest is the problem?
dose
Level 5 User

Joined: 22 Jun 2005
Posts: 123

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 7:41 pm

trackrod end!! inner rack joint if there's very slight play in inner rack joint its ok(if got power steering)as u can get some end float!!but i mean slight!!
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