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Front Brake Disc Change
Front Brake Disc Change
An article detailing how to change the front brake discs.
Published by Chet T16
12th October 2006
Front Brake Disc Change

Righty, the pictures in this article show the disc change on a Renault Laguna with the Girling/Lucas brakes. Bendix brakes were also fitted to these cars, so I will mention the differences as required.

This is what you need:

T40/T30 Bit
18mm Socket/Spanner
13mm Spanner
17mm Spanner
Wire Brush
Cpper Grease
Carb/Brake Cleaner

Brake discs come in different sizes, the Meganes and Lagunas come in a variety of sizes, while the 19's and Clios etc are okay as you just say what they are and you get the right bit.

Brakes are important so if you do something stupid it's your fault!

This is a Girling set-up:



I don't have a picture of a Bendix set-up as of yet, I will get one though.

Right, jack the car up, and secure it safely.

Start by loosening off the brake disc retaining screws, these may be missing or snapped off on your car which is one less thing. These tend to seize. The old countersunk T40 bolts tend to come out easily, the newer flat head T30's are a different story. In this case I had to use a chisel to unscrew the bolts then when they shifted enough the mole grips got it out. In some cases you have to resort to drilling.

With these loosened you need to retract the caliper piston. To do this grab the caliper and pull it towards you (away from the car). If the disc is loose, stick a wheel bolt/disc securing screw back in. Go very slowly here to avoid damaging the seals.

The caliper's piston should now be fully retracted, if the caliper's not moving you may need to resort to a G-Clamp to get enough force.

On Girlings, hold the slider with the 17mm spanner and undo the 13mm bolts - the caliper will now lift off.

This is what you will be left with, note that the pads have been taken off.



Secure the caliper up out of the way with a bit of wire or like I do a cable tie around the suspension spring.



This prevents the brake line hoses being strained.

On Bendix calipers remove the pins from the slider plate, then remove the plates and lift out the pads.

On Girlings you need to remove the caliper carrier the pic above shows the breaker bar undoing the top 18mm bolt.

Here's the carrier off:



Get the wire brush on this and clean off the dust/rust where the pads sit.

Now you can remove the disc, if you're lucky it will just fall off, otherwise get the hammer out and belt the thing off, but watch your eyes!

On Bendix set-ups you can leave the caliper in place and remove the disc.

This is what you should see:



Clean this up with a wire brush, there should be no debris left on the hub as this will cause judder. I use a wire brush attachment in a drill generally.

I smear a very thin layer of copper grease on the hub to prevent future seizures.

Get the new disc on then spray it with the carb/brake cleaner to remove the oily protective coating on the discs. They are oiled to prevent them rusting in storage. Put the disc on the hub then spin it on the hub to spread the copper grease evenly.

Fit the disc securing screws, and put some copper grease on their threads to prevent seizures.

Refit the hub carrier.

Get the new pads and smear the backs with copper grease, making sure none gets onto the front (obviously). Fit into the carrier, and reattach the caliper to the carrier.

On Bendix calipers, make sure the plates are in good condition and smear them with some copper grease. If the spring clips are tired get new ones!

Get in the car and pump the brake pedal until the pads are back in contact with the disc.

Lower the car and drive gently until the brakes have bed in.

Job done!
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