Retro-Renault
Donate!

Welcome to the Retro-Renault forums.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features including the tech articles. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join Retro-Renault now!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. PLEASE NOTE: If you were a member of Retro-Renault on the old site you will now need to re-register.

Go Back   Retro-Renault > Tech Articles > Engine/Mechanical


Comment
 
LinkBack Article Tools Display Modes
Spanner Rating
Difficulty rating. the higher the rating the harder the jobN/A
Average N/A%
K7M Running Problems
K7M Running Problems
An article covering the cleaning of the Throttle Body and ISCV. Also highlights other areas which can cause running problems on this engine.
Published by Chet T16
12th October 2006
K7M Running Problems

May not be a Retro car, but I have had a few questions regarding these engines. The engine also gets transplanted into Clios and I am sure there must be a 19 with one in it somewhere.

Problems are - generally poor running, engine management light on, increased fuel consumption and stalling when braking or dipping the clutch.

The engine is just a bored and stroked 1.4 Energy engine so it's a good little lump if not as rev happy as the 1.4.

The engine is multi-point injection (MPI) and generally okay, not a powerhouse hauling a megane along, but good enough.

Anyway lets get started. It's easier to do if you remove the strut brace which is held in by two 13mm bolts.

First check is to see if the feed pipe from the manifold to the MAP sensor is broken. They generally are. This will light up a fault straight away. So you need a new pipe from Renault the part number is 7700273689 and it's priced at £5.21 + VAT.



That picture shows the MAP pipe. In case you can't tell this is not the original pipe, this is a pipe from a Renault 19 Carburettor Engines' Ignition Module Vacuum Capsule, as the original pipe was long broken, this is it's substitute.

Before fitting it poke a small screwdriver/drill bit into the manifold hole, make sure its clear, a blast with carb cleaner will do no harm either, its awkward to get to though as its at the back of the manifold.

If the pipe is there and fine then squirt through it with carb cleaner. Also spray across the MAP Sensor's Pipe Stub, not directly into it. This will clean any crap from it.

The Air Inlet Temp Probe is in the ducting from the Airbox to the Throttle Body as is the breather pipe. So spray the Air Temperature Sender with carb cleaner and get it nice and clean. Clean out the breather pipe whilst your there.

Next is the TB.

To remove the TB unplug the ISCV and the Throttle Position Sensors (TPS) wiring plugs. Then dissconnect the throttle cable and pull it out of it's bracket.

Then unscrew the four T30 bolts that hold the TB to the Manifold. The gasket behind may split or if your lucky come off in one piece, the cars I have done usually split into a million pieces then you have to scrape the remains off the TB. So a new gasket from Renault is part number 7700865763 at a cost of £1.09 + VAT.



That's the Throttle Body off.

Remove the ICV by unscrewing the 2 Phillips screws that hold it in, the ICV is the top thing, the other thing attaches to the Throttle Spindle and is the Throttle Position Sensor. Don't touch it.

Pull the valve out of the TB. This is a a simple plunger-type valve and it will no doubt be covered in sticky oil residue. Clean it all off with carb cleaner and a tooth brush.



That's the actual ICV. My finger is pulling down the metal cylinder around the plunger, this can stick solid to the plunger.

Clean the TB. This will take a bit of effort as it will be filthy more than likely. Spray into the ICV's home and make sure its spotless. Do the same with the whole throttle body.



That's the ICV's home. Cotton buds help get right in there.



Hold the throttle wide open like this, and clean the throttle plate and TB with spray and toothbrush.

When it's clean, refit the ICV to the TB and refit the TB to the manifold using a new gasket if needed.

Then it's a case of fire it up. If the car has been running bad for a while then it will not run perfectly to begin with, however the engine management light should go out, especially if you rectified a burst MAP pipe. A better way is to disconnect the battery do the work above, reconnect it, then start the car. Doing it that way will mean the ECU will not have to re-adjust to normal running.

And that's that. Hopefully all your idle and slow running problems will be solved. It should also start first time instead of 5/6 tries with throttle.

But remember if the HT leads, spark plugs, and other items are duff then this will not solve all your problems.
Article Tools

Comment

Bookmarks

Tags
k7m, problems, running


Article Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


All times are GMT. The time now is 02:45 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.0.0
vB Ad Management by =RedTyger=

Article powered by GARS 2.1.8m ©2005-2006