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Old 27th December 2006, 04:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
Speedy
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Speedo cable / Trip computer

Hi,

This is my first post so hi to everyone. Does anyone have any ideas why my trip computer won't count miles and mpg, but still shows fuel and temperature? It happened when i changed some dash bulbs and i've checked everything but can't get it working. It happened on my old car but i managed to fix it then but canny seem to this time. It's a 19 16v ph1.

Cheers,
David.
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Old 27th December 2006, 04:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Turn the nob to the right to reset the trip computer.
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Old 27th December 2006, 04:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Is the digital display flashing? if yes (should also be flashing when ignition key is removed but much fainter) then reset it by having the ignition on and turn the trip knob to the right.

Otherwise its down to the speedo cable itself, does the speedo work? (if no then thats why the MPG etc does not work)
Does the needle travel smoothly or judder? (if it judders its not connected properly, more than likely at the back of the clocks as this is where you last touched it)
Did you ensure all the cables were plugged in correctly when you refitted the clocks as the speedo cable for the digi dash has a sensor built into it which feeds the inormation to the fuel computer to read MPG etc
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Old 27th December 2006, 05:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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It's definitely reset ok and not flashing and the speedo does work but the needle does judder at low speeds. Checked and double checked all the wiring and its ok. The little circuit board inside the white casing looks ok too with all wires connected unless i've accidentally knackered it. How much force do you need to get the cable in properly as its akward to get a good grip on it.
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Old 27th December 2006, 05:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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the cable should 'snap' in, as in you should feel it sorta click when its connected properly.
When you took the clocks out, did you get the speedo cable off easily or did you just pull it as hard as you could to get it out?
If it was yanked as hard as you could out of the back of the clocks you may have done some damage to either the cable or the assembly itself
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Old 27th December 2006, 06:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I was as gentle as i could be but i still had to pull hard. The white plastic casing did come off when the cable came out but as i said i had a good look at the circuit board and all seemed fine. It definitely didn't click going back in even with a lot of force so maybe it only goes in one way?
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Old 28th December 2006, 01:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy View Post
It's definitely reset ok and not flashing and the speedo does work but the needle does judder at low speeds
mine does the same, judders at 10-20mph unless i'm accelerating (which i normally am ). I've been assuming its normal?
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Old 28th December 2006, 02:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy View Post
I was as gentle as i could be but i still had to pull hard. The white plastic casing did come off when the cable came out but as i said i had a good look at the circuit board and all seemed fine. It definitely didn't click going back in even with a lot of force so maybe it only goes in one way?
no, the end of the cable is uniform as is the back of the clocks where it goes, so it should just push in and 'click' so you know that its secure.
Did you damage the lugs on the plastic clips that secure the cable to the input on the clocks ?
if they are not engaged properly, this is why you get the judder on the needle and more than likely why the fuel computer is not working

If you look at the metal shaft on the back of the clocks you will see it has a groove cut into it, this is where the plastic clip of the cable clips onto securing the cable into the clocks, when removing it, you should just be able to squeeze the plastic clip which then disengages it from the shaft and pulls free smoothly.

there is however the possibility that you have managed to partially disengage it at the gearbox end (although unlikely cos the clip that holds the cable into the box is a right bugger to remove!) or you have stretched the cable when removing the clocks.
Did you get the clocks all the way out of the dash before you removed the cable ?
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Old 28th December 2006, 04:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The T.I.B. View Post
mine does the same, judders at 10-20mph unless i'm accelerating (which i normally am ). I've been assuming its normal?
Yeah, i think it is - my old car did it too and the computer worked ok.
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Old 28th December 2006, 04:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wicked Neo View Post
no, the end of the cable is uniform as is the back of the clocks where it goes, so it should just push in and 'click' so you know that its secure.
Did you damage the lugs on the plastic clips that secure the cable to the input on the clocks ?
if they are not engaged properly, this is why you get the judder on the needle and more than likely why the fuel computer is not working

If you look at the metal shaft on the back of the clocks you will see it has a groove cut into it, this is where the plastic clip of the cable clips onto securing the cable into the clocks, when removing it, you should just be able to squeeze the plastic clip which then disengages it from the shaft and pulls free smoothly.

there is however the possibility that you have managed to partially disengage it at the gearbox end (although unlikely cos the clip that holds the cable into the box is a right bugger to remove!) or you have stretched the cable when removing the clocks.
Did you get the clocks all the way out of the dash before you removed the cable ?
I did damage the lugs a bit but i have another one from my old Ph2 so i'll give that a go and have a general check of everything. When i took the clocks out i tilted them upwards and then squeezeed my hand in to get at the cable but it was an arse to get off so i may have stretched it. At worst it's a new cable, he says fingers crossed! I've also got another set of clocks with a working computer that i could try as well.
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Old 19th January 2008, 01:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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would this work for a 19 16v whos battery went flat and now no trip compy or fuel gauge works?
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Old 19th January 2008, 02:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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would this work for a 19 16v whos battery went flat and now no trip compy or fuel gauge works?
Have you done the standard reset thing, turn the knob clockwise until the display stops flashing.
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Old 19th January 2008, 02:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Have you done the standard reset thing, turn the knob clockwise until the display stops flashing.

Not my car unfortunately, awaiting a text back to see if its worked
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Old 19th January 2008, 03:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Apparently it worked, thanks for the info guys, saved him a 40quid reno bill so he's happy
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Old 19th January 2008, 03:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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That's good to know, it's in the handbook that comes with the car but I know a lot of older cars don't always come with the pack.
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