F7x in R5 - Page 2 - Retro-Renault

**bidderman1969** · 22nd November 2006, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Riker

I always wanted to ask - why the scoop on Clio and R19 then?

i always thought this was to aid heat dispation, so when its being driven, it forced the engine heat away and out under the engine, and when staionary, allowing it to vent up and out and away from the engine......

what a plonker i am!

**Chris H** · 22nd November 2006, 11:07 PM

considering the drip trays in the way and theres no clear path it over stuffs the bay, decreases cooling capability and increases lift if we want to get technical abotu it.

**bidderman1969** · 22nd November 2006, 11:08 PM

lol, no i can see that now, just that it looked like that was what it was for

**Chris H** · 22nd November 2006, 11:12 PM

it gets rid of heat in traffic at a standstill, no denying that, 99% of them have crazed paint on the bonnet from the heat

people fail to realise air is best thought of as a fluid, it has mass (more than people think) and it doesn;t easily change direction, also physics applies ot it, an area of high pressure will move easily to low pressure, when the pressures are close it won;t flow as easily!

**bidderman1969** · 22nd November 2006, 11:16 PM

speaking of air and movement etc, always fascinates me how areoplanes fly, great big cumbersome things, still shows the power of air, dynamics, etc

**Chris H** · 22nd November 2006, 11:20 PM

all that heavy air to rest on! Its juts like a radiator really, to go from the front to the back there has to be a pressure difference, for a plane to fly theres a pressure difference betweent he top of the wing and under it, the high pressure basically pushes up lifting the wing.

Very simple way to think of it.

pressure difference on plane wing is due to varying speeds of the air passing over the wing, like a carb throat.

david3533 · 24th November 2006, 10:02 AM

slow air creates high pressure fast air creates low pressure.

**bidderman1969** · 24th November 2006, 10:09 PM

ok, thanks

Riker · 3rd January 2007, 03:18 PM

Updates updates

My friend got rid of his F7P engine cos he put a F7R from wrecked Willy few days ago...

So, now I have the fully serviced and well running Clio's F7P engine...in my shed

Mounts are different...which isn't looking pretty at this time...

Could I just use my F3N mounts on the Clio engine, cos I plan on leaving my current gearbox in...

And yes - a mounting question - is the F3N's 3 mounts enough to cope with assome powerness of F7P derivate

Also, again I'm asking - heating?

How do I move the heat? Is there a material for isolating the bonnet so the paint dont crack?

And why it isnt smatr to wrap the manifold? Is it because it's material?

What if I use Supersprint exhault manifold, I assume that changes the situation?

Thanks!

u33db · 3rd January 2007, 04:54 PM

Yes you can use the F3N mounts (thats the carb 1.7 yeah?) but you'll need some R19 16v cambelt/pulley/vernier covers or gind off the clio top mount bits.

david3533 · 3rd January 2007, 06:57 PM

you will also need to use the f3n alternator brackets and from memory a 110cm aux belt the clio top mount should unbolt.

Riker · 3rd January 2007, 07:02 PM

ok...and what about the heating / manifold issues?

david3533 · 3rd January 2007, 07:08 PM

what about them? what issues? mine was no worse than a f3n for heat. and as for the manifolds it depends on how your going to fit the engine top down or bottom up?

Riker · 3rd January 2007, 07:19 PM

about mounting the engine, no idea really, I didn't even consider bottom up mounting...

I really don't have a proper garage, so the standard way in is the way it'll go i think...

as for the heat issues, I'm glad to hear the info from the first hand, cos the only thing that "scares" me about this project is really only a heat problem, I have a water temp paranoia

david3533 · 5th January 2007, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Riker

about mounting the engine, no idea really, I didn't even consider bottom up mounting...

I really don't have a proper garage, so the standard way in is the way it'll go i think...

as for the heat issues, I'm glad to hear the info from the first hand, cos the only thing that "scares" me about this project is really only a heat problem, I have a water temp paranoia

if you are going to drop the engine in from the top then the slam panel will have to come out and a bolt on 1 will have to be made up, this is easy. yes the engine bay gets hot but as long as you have the right rad and you think about how you are going to position the rad all will be well.

gtturbokiller · 5th January 2007, 06:25 PM

Hello guys,

sorry to bother, but I think my brain is on hollydays

What kind of r5 do you have there in UK?!?!?! It seems to be much bigger the engine bay?

And PLEASE explain how did it fit on the damn r5 mounts!?!?!?!?!

My engine still isn't properly fited on the mounts and the rubber in the mounts seems to be too flexible(when i step on the gas the gear knob allmoast hits the handbrake and in "engine brake" it turns off my radio

)

24th November 2006, 10:02 AM	#27 (permalink)
david3533 Membre Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Oz Posts: 176 Awards Showcase Total Awards: 1	slow air creates high pressure fast air creates low pressure.

3rd January 2007, 06:57 PM	#31 (permalink)
david3533 Membre Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Oz Posts: 176 Awards Showcase Total Awards: 1	you will also need to use the f3n alternator brackets and from memory a 110cm aux belt the clio top mount should unbolt.

3rd January 2007, 07:08 PM	#33 (permalink)
david3533 Membre Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Oz Posts: 176 Awards Showcase Total Awards: 1	what about them? what issues? mine was no worse than a f3n for heat. and as for the manifolds it depends on how your going to fit the engine top down or bottom up?