F7x in R5

[Riker]

A few questions;

Since I already have F block in my R5GTE, F7P/R (whatever comes first) engine should sit properly in current mounts?

Or do I need to lift some mounts, lower, level the engine etc?

Cooling - will the std rad be fine, or do I need larger one? Larger fan maybe?

Hood scoop? Can I get along withou it? I personally hate them if they're not factory installed.

Will the exhaust wrapping in heat tape be enough?

Also, I would like to know it the ANY physical difference between R19 engine and Clio? Stupid question maybe, but I would like to know. I mean differences in mounts, something that would affect the engine swap...

Thanks for the inputs, m8s

[Chris H]

the 19 engine will go in using the 5's mounts.

The rad is totaly different and you need to use the 16V one.

you don't need the scoop, you may need to 'dress' the bonnets frame underneath.

exhaust wrap the downpipe if you must, if you do the manifold it will crack unless you go for the 2 litre.

Engines, all are physically the same, ok the later meg engines have chain drien oil pumps etc but thats only a diff int he sump.

The 19/clio/meg all have different looms.

The 19/clio run a dizzy then meg DIS

water pipes are very similar on the 19/meg different on the clio.

the inlet manifolds are all different.

Mounting of the ICV's are different on the 19/clio and the meg has a totally different plunger style icv mountoed on the tb.

The 19 uses the old style mounts liek the 5 etc. The meg and clio use the hanging mounts so totally different and won't go in a 5 unless you fancy a lot of welding.

19 cambelt covers are different to the meg/clio.

aux componnets are laid out different on each engine, the clio is the weirdest and crappest set up.

[Riker]

Originally Posted by Chris H

exhaust wrap the downpipe if you must, if you do the manifold it will crack unless you go for the 2 litre.

so you suggest not the wrapp the cast iron manifold on 1.8 engine?

can i just fit the 2 liter one, will it make some changes (negative or positive)?

sorry for so much questions, but I have to be preped for the swap

[Chris H]

don't wrap the manifold.

Use the 1.8 manifold.

There no heat issue anyway theres no need for the vent.

[Riker]

I always wanted to ask - why the scoop on Clio and R19 then?

[Chris H]

looks mainly.

The 19 in france etc never came with the vent for a while.

[david3533]

use a gtt rad.

[Chris H]

16V rad has more area and no oil connections on it though.

[david3533]

yep but not sure it will fit very easy as the fan motor might snag on the oil filter. also if you want to run a oil cooler you have the take off already. also the air flow from the rad is a bit easier with the gtt rad as you can sit it more towards the gearbox and you won't have the air flow hitting such a big area of the engine. use the 16v front mounrts (engine and gearbox) and the gtx/e rear mount. you will have to re position the gearbox side mount by 3/4 mill further up the sub frame for the engine to sit square but its not a big problem. use all the loom from the 16v and the Aux fuse box as well as this is where you connect the relays up you will have to make a removable slam pannel as if you want to remove the rad or do any work on the front of the car this will make that work a whole lot easier, (as i said in the guide). if you make the bonet/hood a lift off one you can position the hood with out it catching and if you tilt it right it will give you more air flow under the hood. please feel free to ask any more questions.

[Riker]

Hmm can't wait to get the project underway...

I think the first thing I'll do is to buy some old shed just to go to work with because I see that this isn't a one week job.

I will spend this winter preparing the engine, I will go for a full rebuild since I don't want to have the car on jack stands every two weeks...

I know it may sound dumb, but if I recall right, the factory repaired powerhead for F7P engine costs about 1500 pounds...If that's the correct price, I think that is the best option, although it takes the fun of working around the engine, but it's the most relaible solution...

Again, if that price's right (I've seen on french Williams board that rebuilding the F7R engine costs about 3000 €, maybe a few hundreds less) then that's what I'll do...

If any of you guys have the Dialogys now (I don't have it at work) check the price for F7P or R engine so we can discuss what's right and what's wrong...

[Chris H]

factory repaired power head? eh?

its £1500 for a bare head casting, no valves, valve springs, cams etc

the full engines around 1500 and its a recon engine, not new for an F7P

[Riker]

I really don't know, this is what my Dialogys show when I choose "Complete engine"...



So this is just bare metal, hollow like a swiss cheese on the inside?

[Chris H]

no thats a fuill engine for 1700 and thats service exchange, it will even come with spark plugs.

a bare head is 1500 though. To build an engine bit by bit its about 6k

[Riker]

Can I order it? 1700, it really isn't too much if you consider everythings NEW inside...

I'm really thinking about this...2000 € for brand new valver...hm

Do I need to give em a F7 engine in service?

[Chris H]

its not NEW its reconditioned.

Get a recon 16V enegien over here from abnother supplier for less than that