Tech FAQ Submission Thread

[Chet T16]

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[The T.I.B.]

how do i loosen the alternator to get the belt off

This answer is based on the R19 16v engine. The clio 16v and other engines may be generally similar but the diagram below will not relate.

Slacken the red nuts, helps to give the corresponding bolts a wiggle too.
(Top two on the little bracket are 13mm socket, lower two are 16mm or 17mm if they've been replaced)

Use the blue one to adjust belt tension (13mm socket, note locking nut), anticlockwise to loosen as you might expect. The whole alternator will pivot and loosen/tighten the belt.

To refit a belt, what I do is firstly poke it down the side of the engine. Then hook it over the crank pulley and power steering pump pulley, and reach over with the other hand and pull it up over the alternator pulley. then from above keep it in place with some tension and poke it down over the water pump pulley - the one without ribs.

[gamefreaks]

How do change my clutch cable?

Anyone who has had a 19 for any length of time will probably have had the cable snap on them so many time they can do them in their sleep, its an easy job, but a bit fiddly, especially if you have big fingers!

I have used this method on 1.4E and 16v engines, but should pretty much be the same for all types.

You will need:
Penknife with a coarse saw blade.
New cable.
Some string.
Adjustable spanner.

1) Put kettle on. Make coffee.
2) Check cable is pre-greased, if its not, then apply some all-purpose grease down the length of it, by applying some to the exposed inner cable at both ends and working it through. If you skip this step, then the cable will seize and strip the pedal ratchet.

3) Unhook cable from clutch end in the engine bay.
4) Pull broken inner cable out.
5) Remove lower exhaust heatshield. (16v only)

6) The plastic grommet in the footwell is a swine to get out. Use the hacksaw blade to saw the end off it. It will then drop out.

7) Take outer cable out of engine bay. Note how it is routed, there should be clips to hold it in place.

8) Put a foot or so of string through the hole in the footwell.

9) Working in engine bay, tie the end of the cable to the string, and get the cable roughly in place. Don't attach either end yet though.

10) Loop string once through the steering wheel (This is so the end of the cable is being pulled in roughly the correct direction from the footwell, and then run it out of the car. Pull the string with one hand and use the other to guide the pedal end of the cable through hole in the footwell.

11) Working in the footwell, pull the pedal end of the cable until the grommet is roughly lined up with the hole. Pull the string. It might 'pop' in, it might not.

12) Attach pedal end of cable. (Make sure it goes through the loop on top of the pedal)
13) Attach the clutch end of the cable.
14) We are now in a state where the cable is in, but the grommet is not seated correctly yet. By connecting the ends, we have put 'tension' on the cable.
15) Get the grommet lined up. Look in the footwell to see how to correct the angle, go to the bay and give it a wiggle, to try and seat it. Do this until it is lined up well.
16) Once grommet is lined up. Press the pedal a couple of times to pop it in. If it doesn't pop, repeat 15-16 again until it does.
17) Drink coffee, check cable is in the clips in the bay for it and put the exhaust manifold shield back on.
18) Check the gears all go in. You are done now.

[The T.I.B.]

F7P F7R Cylinder Head Bolts Tightening

Before you start
Wind all ten bolts in by hand then out again, this makes sure there's no dirt or anything in the threads. Then if you've got grease with the head bolts, apply some of that to the bolt threads and under the heads. Wind the bolts in til they are finger tight.

Stage 1 - first tighten
Right now get your torque wrench with a long T55 bit. Tighten all the bolts to 30Nm but do them IN ORDER, which means do the 2 middle bolts first then spiral outwards (see diagram)

Stage 2 - second tighten
Next, go back to the first one and tighten it more, up to 50Nm. Walk away and make a cup of tea.

Stage 3 - loosen
After a few minutes loosen them all right off but don't take them out. Do this in BACKWARDS ORDER so you loosen the outside ones first and middle ones last.

Stage 4 - final tighten
Now you are ready for final tightening. With the torque wrench do them up to 25Nm, in a spiral like the first time you did it.

Stage 5 - angle tighten
Once they're all done, go back again and turn them all by another 107 degrees. To help judge 107 degrees you can get dials to attach onto the wrench or you can make one out of cardboard. 107 degrees is just past a quarter turn to give you some rough idea but do it properly.

End.

[The T.I.B.]

CTS - Coolant Temperature Sensor (F7 Type Engine)

So everyone's going on about the CTS. This article shows what it looks like and how to change it.

You will need:
New CTS (e.g. GSF Car parts, £9.50+VAT)
Spanner 21mm
Thin blade or similar to unhook the plug retaining clip (you'll see)


Stage 1 - Gain access

I removed the airbox and moved the throttle cable out of the way. This makes things a lot easier!

This is looking at the side of the engine. Guess what, the arrow points to the CTS.
Note: later engines may differ; after about 1992 the sensors are mounted on the thermostat housing. It's the same sensor - the one with the WHITE socket



Stage 2 - Replacement

New sensor



Loosen the old sensor, then you should be able to unscrew it by hand. One you pull it out some coolant will shoot out the side of the head. Obviously if the engine's been running that will be nearly boiling water so use protection kids.

Screw the new sensor in, not forgetting to carry across the copper washer from the old sensor.



Stage 3 - Finishing Off



Plug in the sensor and replace any parts you might have moved out the way. Top up the coolant and consider that a job well done.


CTS Testing

The sensor can be tested. This involved measuring its resistance at different temperatures. For this you'll need a pot of water on the stove, and an Ohmmeter (or multimeter).

Temperature    Resistance
20 degrees     3061-4045 Ohms
40             1315-1600
80             301-367
90             212-273

[The T.I.B.]

I posted the three of mine into the Tech Articles Forum. I have 2 problems:

> I could not for the life of me figure out how to get it to accept a title photo for each of them
> I closed the threads but now want to go back and edit them. Is the author not allowed to unclose the thread he closed?