Project Clio 16v

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

oil pressures fine, normally when cold they are around 6 bar

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

ok, thanks. Just wanted to check as it was higher than before and most people seem to say 3bar is the ususal on cold idle.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

3 bar on a cold idle is low I'd say.

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

well, things are looking up for a change. Sorted out the colling system and it no longer leaks, and the fan kicks in on the radiator. The fan itself doesn't kick in till the temp is approaching the end of the temp scale - about 3/4 of the way between the 2/3rd mark and the last mark on the gauge, is this too hot or should it be OK? The other question I have is about the aux water pump. Am I right in thinking this should come on when you turn the engine off or something if it's over a certain temperature? If so what temperature should that be at as it doesn't seem to come on at all.

When I took it out for a quick drive it actually felt OK. The main problems were that the clutch bites very low and it's very on/off. I think it was said in the past to try a new clutch cable for the biting point, I take it theres nothing that can be done about the on.off feeling clutch?

The other thing was that I noticed there is a sort of clicking noise in time with the wheels going round that you can hear from the engine bay area when driving. You can't hear the noise when you are braking or accelerating though, so I'll jack the car up try rotating the wheels and see if I can work out what it is.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

cooling fan sounds about right, all the gauges vary so best get a pic up.

108 degrees is when the fan and aux water pump will kick in at shut down.

To see if both work short out the plug for it, its the lowest sender on the stat housing.

did you fit a new clutch when you did the box? fit a new cable?

CV joint, is the drivers shide gaiter ok?

Retroholic Joined: 27 Feb 2006 Posts: 1000

my auxillary wtaer pump comes on immediately after i turn the engine off, regardless of the temperature..... but i have a superior 19 16v, Laughing

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

lol @ bidderman - you haven't lived till you've had a clio Laughing

Chris - Yeah, I fitted a new clutch but did not fit a new clutch cable.

The gaiter is OK iirc, I think I checked the gaiter when I was fiddling with the driveshaft and brakes and I think it was fine.

The other thing is that sometimes there is a bit of vibration through the car as you edge forward slowly. It can only really be felt if you are edging forward and seems to be OK if you pull off as normal.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

clutch would cause a judder like that or a dirty flywheel. The slow pull away one.

get another cbale on there, or live with it, I'd chose the latter

Retroholic Joined: 23 Dec 2005 Posts: 3315

bidderman1969";p="107649 wrote:

my auxillary wtaer pump comes on immediately after i turn the engine off, regardless of the temperature..... but i have a superior 19 16v, Laughing

your car doesnt run does it??

Retroholic Joined: 27 Feb 2006 Posts: 1000

it most certainly does BB!! you cant keep a good 19 down you know, just cos its not on the road, doesnt mean it doesnt run! d'oh!

Shocked

Retroholic Joined: 23 Dec 2005 Posts: 3315

hummm well vid in that case last time i seen it was in bits

Razz

Retroholic Joined: 27 Feb 2006 Posts: 1000

oh, nooooooo thats the other engine i have for it

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

Chris H";p="107663 wrote:

clutch would cause a judder like that or a dirty flywheel. The slow pull away one.

get another cbale on there, or live with it, I'd chose the latter

Thats what I though about the judder, but tbh I don't know how it's like that as I know the flywheel was clean when I put the clutch on and can't see what I could have done wrong when fitting it. Is it something that will improve with time or just stay the same? (will the friction sort of burn anything off the flywheel is what I mean)

I'm tempted to try another cable tbh as it's rediculously low the biting point.

Thanks for all the help by the way, I know I can be a bit of a pain with all the questions, lol.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

drive it about a bit and it might clear up, a hard sport on the clutch plate or anything.

i would say go do some hard starts but that'll just end in tears

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

Ok, i'll give the hard starts a miss for now, don't want to cause more problems as it no doubt would, lol.

Last quick question for now, would it be OK to use a dog bone mount for a 1.4 on the 16v or is there a bit of difference between the two?

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

Got the car up on some stands today and turned the drivers side wheel to find out about this clicking noise. It seems to be coming from the gearbox end of the o/s driveshaft. If you rock the shaft back and forth you can hear and fell it at the end nearest the gearbox. Any idea on what that could be?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

1.4 dogbone will be fine.

is it the shaft or the box making the noise? box was fine on the 19 when I last used it.

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

I'm hoping it isn't the box anyway - thats all I need tbh. My guess is the driveshaft though, if I hold the driveshaft by the part which joins to the gearbox you can rotate is a couple of mm either way without the rest of it beyond the rubber gaiter moving at all so I'm hoping thats whats causing the noise - would that make sense?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

yeah sounds a bit dodgy that CV!

Should be no real rotational play in it.

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

ok, I think I may have been slightly wrong about the cause of the noise. To check if there was more play than there should be I tried turning the driveshaft on the 1.4 with the wheels down and found there to be about the same amount of play in it as there is on the 16v. I then went undereath the 16v and discovered out that if you push the part of the driveshaft just before it joins the gearbox (just after the second rubber gaiter but before where the roll pin is) it seems to make the exact same noise you get when the wheel is left spinning. I can't really see how this noise is caused when the wheel spins, but I'm certain thats what it is.

What I want to know now if what my options are, can you repair the current driveshaft if you remove the gaiter (the one nearest the gearbox) and do something (though it isn't split or anything, or am I just as well getting a driveshaft off a 1.2/1.4 clio from the scrappies? Also, whats standard price for a drivshaft from a scrappies.

I am pretty much certain that this upwards/downwards play is in the driveshaft itself, but is it possible it could actually be in the gearbox?

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

Another thing I should say is that I tried what you suggested to check the aux water pump and it doesn't seem to be coming on. I shorted the connector off the thermostat after the engine had been runnign and whilst the fan came on I don't think the water pump did - I pressume I would see water coming through from the top header tank hose if the pump was running?