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16V-Converted Renault 5: How To Build One!
16V-Converted Renault 5: How To Build One!
David again kindly put this article together, based on his f
Published by Chet T16
9th October 2006
16V-Converted Renault 5: How To Build One!

David again kindly put this article together, I'm having trouble with some pics so I shall put them up when I can access them.

This is not a bible but a guide from some one who has done this conversion and takes this engine in and out on a regular basis. Approximate time of conversion 24-36 hours in a good workshop. A good mate is also needed.

Tools required are the following socket set a good selection of open ended and ring spanners (all metric), hammer, hacksaw crimps and crimping tool, and spirit level, electric drill and a good selection of hss drill bits.

Part 1.

Engine removal.

Remove original engine. To do this, do the following:
Disconnect battery, disconnect hoses, disconnect engine loom from body loom, remove lights & front bumper disconnect drive shafts front suspension struts and exhaust. Remove feed to starter motor, remove radiator. The only items needed to be left in the bay are the barking system and steering.



Once installed start to move things about. For ease of maintenance



Q are you going to drop the subframe and assemble the engine on that or drop the engine in from the top? If engine installation is from the top removal of the slam panel is essential.

Part 2

Prepping the engine bay

Clean all the bay making sure that all corrosion is treated BEFORE the installation begins. Check sub frame lower wishbones and drive shafts for corrosion and either treat or replace accordingly. Check condition of engine mounts as these can be reused.

Step 3

The engine installation.



A list of parts is required before installation of the engine.

These are as follows:

Engine (engine should be complete with both manifolds throttle body injectors icv i.e. in a condition where once its installed all you have to do is turn the key), (YOU WILL NOT NEED THE POWER STEERING PUMP OR ABS PUMP THESE WILL NOT FIT IN THE BAY WITH THIS ENGINE). Gearbox (if conversion from a gtx model the original gearbox is ok) all water pipes upper and lower, aux water pump, aux fuse box, ecu (use a ecu from a early model as this does not have a immobiliser), map sensor, engine loom, ignition unit, high pressure fuel pump, high pressure fuel hoses, exhaust down pipe and new slam panel. A new vacuum hose will be needed for the brake servo.



Notice position of expansion bottle, rad’, air filter and ignition module. Also the position of the ecu on the front offside wing.

Assemble the engine and gearbox on a bench fit engine mounts hoses wiring loom and starter motor DO NOT FIT ALTERNATOR YET! Lower assembled engine into bay with the aid of an engine lift or hoist, before locating engine mounts into original locating positions ease of front two mounts from the block and gearbox. Ease assembly into position. (IF YOU ARE USING THE 19 16V ENIGINE IT IS AT THIS POINT YOU WILL FIND THAT IF YOU HAVE NOT REMOVED THE SLAM PANNEL YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET THE ENGINE INTO THE BAY WITH THE ENGINE COMPLETE. REMOVE THE SLAM PANEL IT IS NOT STRUCTUAL AND REPLACE THIS WITH A BOLT IN ITEM). Having located the mounting holes for the engine slowly lowers the engine and gearbox into position now with the aid of a meter long spirit level check that the engine is logtiudally level. This will not be level so on the subframe mark the new position of the gearbox mount and drill accordingly it will not be far out, about 2-3 mm. Now lower engine into place fit +ve feed to starter motor and proceed to tighten all bolts down. Now position the rad’ two new locating holes will need to be drilled at the same time check the location for the aux water pump this will probably need to be located on the subframe underneath the rad’ . Before fitting rad’ fit alternator and belt use alternator fitting kit from engine that’s been removed (a new shorter belt will be required) now fit rad’ and aux water pump. Fit ecu and aux fuse box . You will need to make a small piece of loom to connect the original body loom to the new engine loom (for this you will need a workshop manual and a multi meter). See below .

Now cut off the brown engine loom plug and buzz out the leads back each of the sensors and parts i.e. ignition module (ignition feed tacho’ etc) reversing light sender alternator etc. The best way I found is to lay the old loom out and buzz back to the clear plastic plug that connects to the body loom and label accordingly i.e. reversing light, ignition, alternator, water temp, oil level. Then cut 150mm of off the old engine loom connect the clear plastic connectors together then feed the rest of the old loom into the aux fuse box. Best place for this is on the nearside inner now make a connector up for the new engine loom to connect to the body loom (you will have some wires left over do not worry they will be for the trip computer), there will also be a plug that connected to the old ignition module, there will be 3 wires a yellow a black and a white, the yellow is the ignition feed this must be connected to the new ignition unit it will be a yellow wire the white is the tacho and the black ignore this is an earth that is not required because the 16v loom already has a earth connected..


Having completed the install and all the wiring you will find the bonnet will not fit you will have to take the strengthening pieces out and possibly modify how you do this is entirely up to individual choice. I cut a big hole in the front then made a section to go over it.

Showing front section made for bonnet.


The fuel pump I mounted next to the washer bottle and that is also where the fuel filter is you can connect the ignition to the pump, mine has its own switch feed with the cut off switch inside the car but that is a question of personal choice.



Notice top left fuel pump and fuel filters.

Step4 exhaust system.

Use the Clio 16v system from the tail to the front towards the front there is a hanger this will need to be ground off also the front 100mm will also need to be cut off this is so that the 16v down pipe can be mated to the exhaust a good tip here is to get an old cat’ cut the cat’ away and weld a small section off pipe onto this you can now bolt this onto the down pipe section, you can now cut the front exhaust section so that the one pipe fits inside the other.

And that’s it easy really start the thing up and away you go. Enjoy………..
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